Updated post: 17/11/18 | November 2018
“There’s not much to actually do in Colonia,” Brittany, an American I had met in Bariloche, had commented. “But it makes for a great escape from Buenos Aires. And you get to visit Uruguay!”
And she was absolutely right! Colonia del Sacramento (to give it its full name), just a short hop across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, is a respite from the hustle and bustle of the city. Take a fistful of cobbled streets, a handful of colonial buildings and a sprinkling of vintage cars and you have the recipe for a perfect day trip.
A short history of Colonia
The architecture and urban planning in Colonia reflect the influence of its two colonial powers – Portugal and Spain – and are unique in this part of South America. The Portuguese street plan, with its irregular cobbled streets, can still be seen in its historic centre, whilst the surrounding areas have newer Spanish architecture.
Let’s go back to 1680 when the Portuguese established Nova Colonia do Santissimo Sacramento (The New Colony of Blessed Sacrament). Now the Portuguese were no idiots. The town gave them a prime position in the Rio de la Plata, all the better to access the mines in Peru and huge swathes of agricultural land.
Having settled Colonia, the Portuguese wanted to hold onto it and they set up defences on the small island of St Gabriel, which was close to Buenos Aires. However, the Spanish, the landlords of Buenos Aires, were having none of this. A long fight ensued, which lasted into the latter half of the 18th century. Finally, in 1777, Colonia became a Spanish city.
Peace reigned for a short time, but between 1811 and 1828 the town bore the brunt of fierce independence battles between Portugal and Brazil. Colonia came in for it yet again from 1839 to 1851 when the new nation of Uruguay was at war with Argentina. With all this conflict, it’s a miracle that the colonial buildings we see today survived. From the middle of the 19th century, peace finally came to Colonia.
The best things to see during a day trip to Colonia
Colonia is an irresistibly picturesque and laid-back place to wander around. However, there’s not too much to see and do, and I found three or four hours in the town are just about right.
Here’s my pick of the top things to do during a day trip: